Surfin’ USA

While driving down to Huntington Beach the other day, that famous Beach Boys song came on in the car: “Surfin’ USA”. I suddenly realized I have absolutely been doing justice to getting my beach experiences in when I discovered I now recognized all of the beach names, and that the line “All over Manhattan” did not in fact reference New York. La Jolla, Pacific Palisades, Del Mar, I actually knew these places now!

Better yet. I have now actually gone surfing. Welcome to my quintessential Californian day.

California is a pretty big state in case you weren’t aware, and there is so much to see and do out here that it would be a shame if I didn’t get out of LA now and again to explore. So when I was given a week off in between my summer and fall internship programs, I figured what better opportunity to explore? With part of my week off I went down to Huntington Beach to stay with some old friends of the family who graciously took me in for a few days.

Ironically, one of the first things I noticed driving to Huntington Beach was how wonderfully smooth the roads were. Driving in LA makes you notice things like this: freshly paved roads truly are glorious things. Apart from the roads, Huntington Beach is a lovely area. I could definitely get used to having the beach just a 5 minute drive away from my front door! The very first day I arrived I had to get in some beach time. Which, for me means that I must get in the water at least once, or it doesn’t count! There is something wonderful about relaxing at the beach alone with a good book and just the sound of the waves crashing. The water though…was freezing. I did my duty, thanks to my mother’s training, and got completely wet…and then promptly went for a long walk on the warm sand to dry off and warm up!

 

Huntington Beach: beautiful roads, palm trees and the beach just behind!

Day two of Huntington Beach however, we decided it was time for me to actually learn to surf. After all, how can you go to California and not try surfing? The date was set, the time and place were…approximated. No matter though, we were determined. Finally, in the late afternoon we set out, swim suits on, boards loaded into the car, wetsuits and wax at the ready. My lovely hosts go-to beach for learning to surf is Seal Beach, but when we arrived and sent out the scouting party, the waves were deemed too small.

Thus began the surfing quest as we scoured the coast for a suitable beach and decent waves. This, I was told, is all part of the surfing culture. Constantly checking the weather and wave forecast, calling up mates that run a surfing school to see what the waves are like – the amount of planning needed is actually pretty intense. After trying out two spots on Seal Beach with no luck, we decided to make our way back down to Huntington Beach, stopping at Sunset Beach along the way.

I was getting nervous. What if I didn’t actually get to try surfing? It was getting later in the afternoon too, so soon we would be racing the sun. My fearless leaders however shot down any worries I may have had with a simple, “No matter what, we will be getting you in the water with a board today Mara.” True to their word, Sunset Beach was found to be perfect, with robust yet gentle waves that would work well for a beginner.

Ready for your surfing lesson? Step one: put on wetsuit. You wouldn’t believe the difference these make! The freezing cold water of yesterday suddenly became pleasantly cool, and we had no qualms about staying out in the water as long as the light allowed. Next for a brief into on the beach: how to lay on the board balancing your weight towards the back, and hands ready to paddle and pop yourself up. This is infinitely easier on the beach than in the water I might add. Not sure whether I was “goofy” or not, meaning standing up on the board with my left leg forward, or the typical right leg forward position, I strapped the ankle strap to my right ankle and out we went!

My faithful surfing instructor did not have a board, but just helped me get into the waves and shouted directions for when to stand up. It took a while…but I can say I successfully surfed! Once you do it once, you can’t wait to get out and try to get better. It turns out I’m not goofy, and midway had to switch my ankle strap. We had the most beautiful time of day for surfing: the sun was setting over the water, casting a golden glow all around.

Sitting on my surfboard, floating on the waves as the sun turned bright red and melted into the ocean, lighting up the waves in fiery red and gold, I couldn’t help but be completely content. This was California. It was peaceful out there. Soothed by the gentle water and treated to nature’s beautiful artwork, I wanted to stay right there and soak everything in. But the sun faded into the watery horizon and it was time to catch one last wave in to shore. Arms and body aching in the most pleasant way of working hard at play, we headed back to the car to strip off our wetsuits and bundle up in towels before rounding off the evening with a swim in the pool. I couldn’t have asked for a better initiation into Southern California. My next day: onwards to San Diego!

Huntington Beach from the Pier! Surfers in the water everywhere

P.S. Favorite new surfing lingo of the week:

Mushy wave: waves that look good at first, but then lose all their momentum and just fade out or get mushy when they reach you.